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coolant leak from LHS scully valve

17K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  Vesa Tiainen  
#1 ·
i have engine coolant leaking from the left hand side scully valve under the wheel arch on a tourgeg 2007 2.5 diesel. UK model. tried to remove wind screen facia but failed. removed small triangular inspection cover inside bonnet but couldn't see anything obvious. any ideas on where whte coolant is coming from
 
#3 ·
put the toureg into a garage.....bad leak from the heater matrix feed pipe way down deep in the bulk head...whole thing had to be stripped down,,,,wiper motor, fan unit, air con all had to be removed...not very good for a 07 toureg with 40k miles on it....cost ÂŁ500 sterling
 
#7 ·
#5 ·
Interesting points made here. I get what looks like a torrent of water from the near side front wheel arch. when I had it checked by the dealer during an A/C service they said it wasn't a problem and it was water from the condenser. The temp gauges don't change so there's no indication anywhere else and the temperature in UK isn't that hot!!!!!!!
 
#6 ·
You shouldn't get a "torrent" of water from the aircon condensate. It is normally a steady dripping more under the car than from the wheel arch itself.

You might want to read this thread and check your plenum chamber/bulkhead drains are both clear. They drain into the wheel arch proper on each side of the car.

Water Ingress in Bulkhead/Footwell - Step By Step Guide - myTreg forums
 
#9 ·
Ouch!
 
#10 ·
i started this original thread about 2 1/2 years ago when my first set started to leak. Three weeks ago the second (replacement) set went and the leak started over again. I have now bought an other set (ÂŁ100) and had them coated with special anti corrosion paint and i am going to have them replaced again. I contacted VW but they didnt want to know as their parts are only garaunteed for 2 years . I wouldnt buy an other Toureg unless they gave me specific warranty on these pipes. Its a classic corrosion cell. Aluminium touching the steel body of the car.
 
#11 ·
My 2009 T2 TDI (left-hand drive, Canadian edition, about 80k km on odometer) started to leak coolant this spring the way you describe it. There is a pair of aluminum pipes located in LH front wheel well, penetrating bulkhead via a metal seal and connecting to the hvac heater core. Over the years one of these pipes had developed a hole big enough to allow rapid, excessive coolant loss this spring. Prior to this happening over the years I noticed some serious calcium buildup in this area and had no clue about its cause. VW techs couldn't provide me with the right answer either! This must have been an effect of corrosive action between two dissimilar metals!
After the coolant loss incident, which luckily happened close to my home, I've examined countless online VW drawings illustrating hvac piping in T2 but could not find the Part #'s for these two specific pipes.
Removed the liner and cleaned all deposits off. As a temporary solution I could bypass the heater core for summer driving but this won't make the T2 useable during our winter, obviously.
My questions are:
1.What are specific VW codes for this pair of aluminum pipes (I cannot read them off the pipes as they are mostly hidden behind the bulkhead);
2. What is an actual routing of these pipes behind the bulkhead and whether there is a proven method of accessing/replacing these pipes (from within the cabin?), based on your experience and observations? (I hate to think this could involve a complete removal of a dash!), and
3. Do you possess any pics and vids to illustrate the above two q's?

Any help will be appreciated!
Cheers!
JaroW
 
#12 ·
1. I do not know the part numbers. When mine burst, quite eventfully, I replaced them with heater hose.
2. These are a complete PITA to replace. They run from the wheel well to the center of the bulkhead, in the section beneath the lower windshield cowl. There is a "false firewall" at the rear of the engine bay you can remove to get a little more access. I had to loosen the brake booster and remove all the lines from the master cylinder to move it out of the way enough to route the new hoses, along with the fuse box and some other stuff in the way.
3. I don't have any pictures, it's pretty hard to see whats going on anyways. If you remove the windshield wipers & cowl you'll see what I mean. It's tight. Everything is done from outside the cabin.

Perhaps there's more stuff that can come out to make the job easier, but I was able to do it without disassembling half the vehicle. Hardest part was getting the old (rigid) pipes out. I opted for heater hose (rubber) for two reasons: 1) the factory design sucks and is liable to fail again anyways, and 2) if I ever have to replace them again, I wont have to deal with removing rigid pipes. As an added bonus, the hose, hose clamps, and barbed connectors cost like $20.